← Back to Bead BoardStick welding amperage chart
This stick welding amperage chart covers every common electrode from E6010 to E7024. Amperage ranges by rod size, polarity settings, and which rod to grab for the job in front of you. Stick works outdoors in wind and on rusty steel that would ruin a MIG weld. No shielding gas, no wire feeder. Just a rod and an arc.
Quick answer
1/4 inch steel with E7018: 1/8″ rod at 90–160 amps, DCEP. The most common structural setup.
Amperage by electrode and rod diameter
All ranges are starting points. Dial up or down based on joint fit-up, position, and how the puddle looks. When in doubt, start at the low end and bump up 5 amps at a time.
Polarity by electrode
Electrode selection by application
Rod storage
E7018 and E7024 are low-hydrogen electrodes. Once the sealed can is opened, store them in a rod oven at 250°F. If they sit out in shop air for more than two hours, rebake at 500–600°F for 1–2 hours before using them on code work. Moisture in the flux coating causes porosity and can lead to hydrogen cracking.
E6010, E6011, and E6013 have cellulosic or rutile coatings that are not moisture-sensitive. Keep them in the original packaging or a dry cabinet. No rod oven needed.
Questions welders keep asking
What amperage do I set for a 1/8 inch 7018 rod?
90–160 amps on DCEP. Most welders land around 120–130 amps for flat and horizontal on 1/4 inch steel. Start at 110 and bump up 5 amps at a time until the puddle wets out smoothly without undercutting.
What is the difference between E6010 and E6011?
Same penetration profile and tensile strength (60,000 psi). The difference is polarity: E6010 is DCEP only, E6011 runs on DCEP or AC. If you have a transformer (AC-only) machine like a Lincoln Tombstone, E6011 is your rod. If you have a DC inverter or engine drive, E6010 gives a slightly more aggressive arc.
Why won't my E6010 run on AC?
E6010 has a cellulosic (sodium-based) flux coating that needs a stable DC arc to stay lit. AC reverses polarity 120 times per second, and the E6010 coating can't re-ignite the arc fast enough. It just sputters and sticks. Use E6011 (potassium-based coating) on AC machines instead. Same penetration, just designed for AC re-ignition.
Do I need a rod oven for 7018?
Yes, if you are doing code work (AWS D1.1, API 1104, ASME). Low-hydrogen rods absorb moisture from shop air. That moisture introduces hydrogen into the weld, which is the #1 cause of hydrogen-induced cracking. Store opened 7018 at 250°F. If they have been out more than 2 hours, rebake at 500–600°F for 1–2 hours. For non-code farm and ranch repair, most shops keep them in a sealed container and they are fine.
Which rod do I use on rusty or painted steel?
E6010 or E6011. The cellulosic flux coating produces a deep, digging arc that burns through rust, mill scale, paint, and galvanizing. E7018 is a smoother rod but it will not tolerate dirty base metal. If you have to weld on junk and cannot grind it clean first, grab a 6010.
What rod size should I use for thin metal?
Use the smallest rod that gets the job done. For 1/16 inch sheet, use a 1/16 inch E6013 at 20–40 amps. For 1/8 inch material, a 3/32 inch E6013 at 40–90 amps. E6013 has the shallowest penetration of the common rods, so it is the least likely to blow through. Keep a tight arc length and move fast.
Can I run 7018 vertical up?
Yes. 7018 is one of the best rods for vertical-up. Use a slight weave or triangle pattern. Drop your amps about 10–15% below your flat setting. For 1/8 inch rod, try 100–120 amps. Keep a short arc length and let the puddle freeze before moving up. If the puddle sags, you are too hot or moving too slow.
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